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Taste. Enjoy. Repeat.

A 7-day Foodie Tour in Bellingham, Washington

By Linda Kissam 'Food, Wine & Shopping Diva

There was a time when the Bellingham area was booming, then a time when prosperity was only a faint memory. But a quick trip to Bellingham just a few short weeks ago tells me its back bigger and better than ever. Whoever is responsible for the booming renaissance in this area deserves an award. There’s enough to see and do for even the most demanding of food and wine diva’s – which of course includes me.

Some interesting facts about Bellingham set the scene. It’s about 2.5 hours by car from Seattle.  It is home to Western Washington University, so it has an authentic college town feel to it which I love. Outdoors Northwest named Bellingham a haven for paddlers.  It’s also America’s raspberry capital.  It is home to the largest Manila clam producer in the US.  The Bellingham Mt. Baker region is #1 in the nation in milk production per cow.  And…my favorite “brag” about Bellingham…Gading.com named Bellingham as one its “…top 25 greatest cities for sipping on vino thanks to its wine bars, boutique wineries, subdued vibe and stunning scenery.”  Ya gotta know I‘ll sip to that!

A true foodie tour is a mix of trying the very best and local’s favorites. Foodies love food for the experience, preparation, and promotion of it all.  We want to learn everything about food and the wines that complement it; both the unsurpassed and the everyday, and about the science, industry, and personalities surrounding food. My 7-day trip to the Bellingham area was that and more. And while we’re at it we want to do some tasting at local wineries and visit a spa or two.  Is that possible in one place?  Yup. Read on.

A quick puddle jumper from Seattle (about 40 minutes) brings you into Bellingham Airport.  Love this airport.  It’s clean, simple and has rental cars.   The first thing you’ll notice after getting your rental car – opt for the GPS – is that everything you’ll want to see and do is no more than 15-30 minutes from each other.  Man, I love “The Ham,” as locals call it.  I will say it has some challenges in the departure department.  A small airline check in counter with limited staff and a zealous security crew can have you cooling your heels in long lines.  When they suggest there could be a 2-hour check in process, believe it.

Excellent hotels are abundant.  I tried three while I was there. Each was perfect in its own way.  
My first two nights I stayed at the Chrysalis Inn in Bellingham.  Can you say, “Light, airy, elegant with a glorious spa?” The views were to die for and it was just a short breezy walk to the quaint town of Fairhaven. Bags dropped off, I was on my way to a sunset BBQ at Taylor Fish Farm. This is a working shellfish farm and a local’s favorite for its picturesque rugged Northwest location and fish market.  Bring your own picnic supplies. Purchase oysters, clams and geoduck at the farm and do a scenic shore-side picnic. BBQ’s and picnic tables are provided.  It’s memorable to say the least.

Perhaps the highlight of my foodie-thon was a “foraging” event.
This is a newer concept connecting the foodie diner with the place the food came from with the restaurant it will be prepared at.  Working with local wilderness guide celeb Jennifer Hahn my group went foraging for food in the morning in a near-by forest.  That collection of herbs, flowers, and berries was sent over to Ciao Thyme on Unity St. in Bellingham.  That evening we were treated to a dinner featuring the fruits of our labor. I cannot begin to describe the “wholeness’ of this experience.  A delicious multi-course dinner made by owner Jessica and Mataio Gillis served at elegant community tables with classic Washington wines brings the term farm to table to life.  This is a must do.

Switching hotels, I was off to the Fairhaven Village Inn in the town of Fairhaven, which is just south of Bellingham.  Large, well appointed, comfortable rooms, easy access to downtown and a friendly staff make the Village Inn a great place to stay.  For breakfast, walk about 50 feet to Magdalena’s Creperie.  Owner Magdalena came to Bellingham from Poland.  Her menu is certainly inspired by her Polish roots, but expect a definite French influence as well.  Any dish you order is lovingly prepared, delicious beyond expectation, and generous in portion.  I don’t think you’ll have a favorite because everything you order will be your favorite.  The espresso drinks are also killer.  This is a must stop for anyone on a quest to taste excellent local-run restaurants.

Fairhaven has a distinct European feel to it and is a great place to walk off the generous breakfast from Magdalena’s Creperie.  Its charming art galleries, historic buildings sidewalk cafes, bars, and boutique dining and shopping makes it a great place to stroll around in.  It borders Bellingham Bay on the west and the Western Washington University on the northeast. Its center is the Fairhaven Historical District, which features a seasonal farmer's market as well as numerous restaurants and shops. The district is a popular tourist destination. All newly constructed buildings are required to conform in outward appearance to the community's traditional 19th-century style.  It also serves a port to the San Juan Islands and Alaska.  The Alaska Ferry departs from the Cruise Terminal each week. Whale watch cruises, skipper chartered cruises and passenger ferries leave daily for the San Juan Islands from the Cruise Terminal throughout the summer.

There are innumerable places to go to dinner.  The Table in downtown Bellingham might just have your number.  It certainly had mine and is just 10 minutes from Fairhaven. This is an edgy, trendy, energetic restaurant.  The food is served family style with a view to using locally produced products whenever possible. Known for its healthy gourmet food attitude, expect really good food served in an upbeat but noisy atmosphere.  Our dinner included freshly made Beet Caprese, Fattoush Salad, Sockeye Salmon Primavera, Moroccan Chicken Linguine, and Pink Vodka Penne. Yum!

Take a breather as we did and stroll over a few blocks to Chocolate Necessities. Owner Kevin Buck treated us to a guided chocolate tasting helping us to better understand the differences in quality of chocolates and cocoa content.  Best to call ahead to see when the chocolate and wine pairings are happening. You’ll thank me later.

Switching hotels again, this time to Hotel Bellwether located in Bellingham.  This 65-room upscale view property is lovely and is again centrally located.  One of Bellingham’s most popular seafood restaurants, Anthony’s,  is located just a quick stroll away.  A waterfront view of Bellingham Bay, delicious creative cocktails (try the cucumber cooler), and some of the best seafood in Washington is served up in casual elegance.  Both hotel and restaurant are highly recommended.

After a couple of days of food, food, it was time to do some wine tasting.
Hopping on a shuttle tour with Whatcom Wine Tours the group was out for a glimpse into what the area wine scene has to offer. Our stops included Glacial Lake Missoula Winery, Vartanyan Estate Winery and Dynasty Cellars. Since there are another six to try, your tour might be different. Although not world class wineries as of yet, there is certainly potential.  We had a lovely picnic lunch at Vartanyan.  Owner Margarita is so passionate and visionary, you can’t help but sense success is just around the corner for her.  At Dynasty Cellars, owner Peter Osvaldik greeted us with lots of charm and a dynamite food & wine pairing.  Peter seems to be mixing Old World winemaking techniques with Washington varietals.  My guess – we have a winner here.  Watch out for this guy – he’s a rock star in the making. The reds are killer.

Helpful Resources

Bellingham Whatcom County Tourism

Chrysalis Inn & Spa

Fairhaven Village Inn 

Hotel Bellwether  

Taylor Shellfish Farm

Jennifer Hahn

Ciao Thyme   

Magdalena’s Creperie 

The Table

Chocolate Necessities  

Whatcom Wine Tours 

The Willows Inn on Lummi Island

Last up on the Bellingham foodie tour was the grand slam of it all; a 16-course dinner at The Willows Inn on Lummi Island.  
Under the quiet and confident direction of young Chef Blaine Wetzel this was a chance to indulge and delight in the foods, taste and culture of Washington cuisine.  Tiny bite-sized courses paired with Washington wines made this the ultimate foodie experience and best of all it’s an affordable indulgence.  There are three price points.  Dinner only.  Dinner with paired wines.  Dinner with paired juices.  Any of the options is under $185 per person.

During the dinner, our group was treated to the texture, sights and tastes of exquisitely prepared and presented courses. Our server patiently explained each unique course: Baked Sunflower Roots, Crispy Crepe with Sockeye Roe, Pickled Oyster with Sorrel, Toasted Kale with Black Truffle and Rye, Wild Berries and Grasses, Albacore with Horseradish, Shitake over Fire, Smoked Sockeye Salmon, Bread with Pan Drippings, Crispy Halibut Skin with Razor Clams, Flax Seed, Aged Venison Leg, Grilled Onions, Spot Prawns, Charred Frisée, and finally... Blueberries with woodruff and malt.

Washington wine pairings at the dinner included Wescott Bay Traditional Apple Cider, 2010 Ross Andrew Winery Meadow Pinot, 2011 Mount Baker Vineyards Madeline, 2011 Lachini Vineyards Rosé of Pinot, and 2009 Brian Carter Cellars Opulento Port.

Hard to top that, so I won’t try.  Goodnight Bellingham.  Nice to see you’re back – and a great place for foodies. I am off to tour the San Juan and Gulf Islands with my husband in a private boat for a week.  More on that trip later.  

Linda Kissam ‘Food, Wine & Shopping Diva' is a professional travel, food and wine writer based out of Southern California. Through her websites www.WineChixs.com  and www.AllinGoodTaste.info  she specializes in easy, breezy destination stories sharing her favorite things about the places she visits.